Prepare to be enchanted by the hidden gems of Vietnam's northern region! Nestled amidst the rugged beauty of northwest Vietnam, the mesmerizing Mu Cang Chai rice terraces offer a breathtaking spectacle that will leave you in awe. With their undulating curves and vibrant lime-green shoots, these terraces cascade down gentle slopes, creating a picture-perfect landscape that defies belief.
But here's the intriguing part: how has this stunning location remained relatively unknown for so long? Well, its remote location and lack of luxury accommodations until recently might have something to do with it. However, the opening of the new Banyan Tree Garrya Mu Cang Chai hotel has changed the game. Perched atop a charming hill with panoramic views, this hotel is becoming a popular destination for those seeking an exclusive and immersive experience.
Most visitors to northern Vietnam are drawn to the popular hill town of Sapa, located a few hours' drive away. While Sapa was once a crown jewel, it has now fallen victim to over-tourism and concrete jungles. Savvy travelers often opt to skip Sapa and discover the hidden treasures of Mu Cang Chai instead.
The Garrya hotel is a masterpiece in itself. Its unique bamboo-roofed buildings seem to float effortlessly above the forest green, black, and corn-yellow marble floors. The main dome houses the bar and the Refresh restaurant, offering breathtaking views from its wraparound terrace. Down the hill, you'll find the 8lements Spa with its hydrotherapy circuit and a heated pool, all sheltered by yet another stunning bamboo roof.
The accommodations at Garrya are equally impressive, with 110 rooms and standalone villas fringing the hill. My Wellbeing Pool Suite was a dream, offering a private infinity pool and a view of the picturesque paddy fields. It was the perfect retreat after a long journey from the UK.
Upon my arrival in Hanoi, I embarked on a five-hour journey to Mu Cang Chai, passing through wild-tea terraces, rice paddies, and cornfields. The road was a spectacle in itself, with trumpet flowers adorning the sides like lanterns. After a delicious lunch of beef wrapped in betel leaves, I arrived at Garrya just in time for a delightful afternoon tea, accompanied by the soothing sounds of a Meo bamboo flute.
The following morning, I woke up feeling refreshed in the crisp mountain air. Breakfast was a delightful spread of hot chicken pho and the trendy cold salt coffee. The view from the hotel was breathtaking, with wooded peaks, stilted huts, and a patchwork of cinnamon and green terraces.
I ventured out with my tour guide, Phenh, to climb the majestic Mam Xoi (Sticky Rice Tray) hill, renowned for its emerald-green terraces. It was a sight to behold, with cascading terraces glistening in the water. May and June are known as the "water pouring" season, but the months of April to July offer an equally stunning display with the glassy water reflecting the sky and the emerging green rice shoots.
During my visit, I had the pleasure of meeting Su, a Flower Hmong grandma, and her family. The Hmong people make up a significant portion of the region's population, and the Flower Hmong subgroup is known for their vibrant, embroidered clothing. Su's granddaughter was cooking chicken in a smoky wooden home, a reminder that even remote communities embrace modern technology. Phenh shared an interesting fact: local couples often text in Hmong, helping to preserve their language.
After a delicious lunch at Garrya, I bid farewell and headed south to the secluded Avana Retreat. This retreat is nestled in the embrace of a limestone mountain near Mai Chau, a popular weekend getaway for Hanoi locals. My suite was spacious and filled with textiles, offering a view of the vibrant jungled gardens.
The Avana Retreat offers a unique experience with its 36 rooms, villas, and bungalows tucked into a steep hillside. I spent time strolling down to the infinity pool, taking in the stunning views of the Mai Chau Valley. The resort's atmosphere was tranquil, with buffalo bells ringing and golden butterflies flitting by. I could have easily spent all my time there, but Avana also provides wonderful activities.
I had the opportunity to learn about indigo batik creation from Van, a skilled artist with over 30 years of experience. She taught me about the natural inspiration behind the patterns, and I felt underdressed next to her elegant traditional Hmong dress. Despite the language barrier, we connected through our shared love of art and culture.
I also tried my hand at cooking in a local cooking class, attempting to carve a carrot into a decorative flower. Although I didn't succeed, I had a blast and even earned a certificate! Vietnamese cuisine is a delight, packed with herbs and umami flavors.
As for drinks, Vietnam offers a unique experience. I had the pleasure of meeting Hien, a member of the Black Thai community, who showed me how to distill "happy water" or rice wine. While the liquor was strong, it was followed by a soothing cup of herbal tea. A restorative foot bath with betel and pomelo leaves, ginger, and hot water provided a much-needed relaxation after my walk to Hien's home.
The rural hideaways of northwest Vietnam offer a sense of peace and tranquility. From the stunning views to the immersive cultural experiences, these retreats provide a perfect balance of relaxation and adventure. I left feeling refreshed, with new skills and unforgettable memories. Now, I'm ready to dive into the vibrant city of Hanoi with a newfound appreciation for Vietnam's northern soul.
